By June, the garden’s usually in full swing. Sun’s out more often than not, the lawn’s coming into its own, and the seating area’s getting regular use again. That’s precisely when many people realise their decking boards look a bit grey, the fence has started to splinter, or last year’s garden bench now feels rough when you run your hand along it.
It’s easy to put these things off. They’re not urgent in spring, and come high summer, the weather’s too hot or unpredictable to start brushing on treatments. That’s why June is the sweet spot: dry days, warm but not blistering temperatures, and enough time left in the season actually to enjoy the results.
Giving your outdoor wood some attention now means it stays stronger, better looking, and less prone to cracking or rot when the weather turns later in the year.
Why June Is the Right Time
There’s a reason resealing jobs often happen in June, and it’s not just convenience. The conditions are ideal.
• Timber is dry from spring warmth but not baked hard, meaning it’ll absorb treatments properly.
• Daylight hours are long, so drying times are easier to work with.
• Rainfall is less frequent in most regions, giving you a reliable window to clean, seal, and let the surface cure.
• Leave it too late and you’ll be trying to beat sudden downpours or brushing on products in hot sun that dry them before they’ve had a chance to settle into the grain.
Whether it’s a tired deck, an old gate, or garden furniture that’s starting to feel past its best, mid-season is your chance to protect it before the elements start taking over again.
Telltale Signs Your Wood Needs Urgent Attention
You don’t always need to guess whether it’s time to reseal or treat wood. It often tells you directly if you know what to look for.
1. Fading or greying
That classic silvery tone on decking or benches might look rustic, but it’s usually a sign the wood’s top layer has dried and UV damage has started to break down the surface. It’s not just cosmetic.
2. Splintering or raised grain
If the surface feels rougher than it did last year or starts catching on clothes or bare skin, it’s time to recoat. Splinters and peeling indicate the fibres are starting to separate.
3. Moss or mould patches
Shady areas, especially on decking, can start to develop green tints or black spots. These hold moisture against the surface, encouraging rot.
4. Water absorption
Pour a bit of water on the wood. If it beads and rolls off, your sealant is still doing its job. If it soaks straight in and darkens the timber, the protection has worn off.
5. Flaking or patchy stain
If stain or paint is coming away in flakes or, worse, is completely gone in high-use spots, recoating isn’t optional. Exposed wood left unsealed will deteriorate rapidly in wet or sunny weather.
6. If you spot more than one of these signs, don’t wait. Each hot day, gust of wind, or splash of rain will worsen the damage.
Choosing the Right Products to Protect Against Sun and Rain
Not every wood treatment is created equal. Some are purely aesthetic, while others are designed to protect for the long haul. What you choose depends on how exposed your wood is and how much maintenance you’re happy to do.
1. Wood preservers (clear or tinted)
Ideal as a base treatment for bare wood, especially on fencing and sheds. They penetrate deep, help resist rot, and prep the surface for staining or oiling. Look for products that offer mould and insect resistance as well.
2. Decking oil
Soaks into the surface and nourishes from within. Perfect for hardwood decking or furniture where you want to maintain a natural finish. Most oils now come with UV filters to reduce fading.
3. Decking stains and paints
Offer more colour choices and surface-level protection. Modern water-based stains dry faster and last longer than older formulas. Use on softwood decking or where you want a uniform colour.
4. Garden furniture oil
Lighter than decking oil, formulated for more refined finishes. Often used on teak, acacia, or eucalyptus furniture. Needs reapplying every year but keeps wood looking rich and hydrated.
5. Fence and shed treatments
Usually pigmented, these are easy to apply and made for speed — great for covering large areas. Choose formulas with wax or silicone if you need extra water repellency.
When in doubt, always read the label. Look for products rated for UV protection, water resistance, and exterior use. And remember: if you can still smell the oil or stain the next day, it hasn’t finished curing. Keep it dry until it does.
Preparing the Surface: A Few Essential Steps
There’s no point putting a premium treatment on a poorly prepared surface. Give your wood the best chance of holding up by taking your time here.
1. Clean thoroughly
Use a stiff brush, a proper wood cleaner, or a mix of warm water and washing-up liquid. Pressure washers work, too, but go gently. Don’t strip the fibres.
2. Let it dry fully
This can take 24 to 48 hours, depending on the weather. Wood needs to be bone dry for treatments to sink in and bind properly.
3. Sand if needed
A light sand will level things out if you’re dealing with splinters or flaking finishes. Focus on high-contact areas like steps, handrails, and seating.
4. Apply in sections
Brush in thin coats, following the grain. Avoid overloading the brush or going over the same spot too many times. For best results, two coats usually outlast one thick one.
5. Watch the forecast
No rain for at least 24 hours after application is ideal. If it does rain too soon, you may see streaks, marks, or patchy absorption.
A Few Hours’ Work, a Full Season’s Peace of Mind
The point of resealing isn’t to make wood look brand new. It’s to keep it healthy. Done right, it restores colour, adds resilience, and stops small issues from becoming expensive repairs later.
And the satisfaction of brushing oil into dry timber on a warm June afternoon, knowing it’s protected for the rest of the year? That’s just a bonus.
FAQs
How often should I reseal decking?
Usually once a year for oil, and every 2 to 3 years for high-quality stains. Aim for annual treatment if your deck gets full sun or heavy foot traffic.
Can I apply wood treatments in direct sunlight?
No. Treatments dry too fast in hot sun and won’t soak in evenly. Choose a cloudy day or work in the morning or late afternoon.
What’s the best treatment for garden furniture?
Teak or hardwood furniture responds well to dedicated furniture oil. For painted or coloured finishes, use a stain-blocking primer and exterior paint designed for wood.